Dynaflite Bobcat 78" Glider

Dynaflite Bobcat 78" Glider

Bobcat ready to fly!

The Dynaflite Bobcat is a 78" (2 Meter) sailplane with a turbulated wing fitted in the high-wing position, and a "Tee" tail. It is an Aileron/Elevator ship, with an optional rudder (which I did incorporate into the completed model) that is supposed to fly well in low wind conditions due to the turbulators on the wing, and general light-weight construction. The aircraft is supposed to be fitted with a tow-hook (removable) for winch or bungee launching, and is obviously intended to be useable for thermal flight. The tow-hook won't be incorporated into the finished model. At least, not to start with. I have always wanted a glider to fly at the cliff when lift conditions were light, and this might be it. For high-lift days I'll have to switch to something else, or perhaps add a chunk of lead on the CoG of this glider!

The wing is in three panels -- a 30" central panel which sits horizontal, and two outer panels at 24" each, with less than two degrees of dihedral per panel. Ailerons are fitted to these outer panels, and I did investigating the possibility of incorporating flaps in the inner panel, but decided not to do so in the end.

As designed, the ailerons are controlled with a single servo mounted amidships, and actuated by two long, flexible pushrods that reach out into the outer panels of the wing. I replaced this with two small strong servos, one in each outer wing panel.

One area of concern is the rear of the fuselage. It looks very weak and in combination with the T-tail design may be a point of failure. I glassed the bottom of the fuse (very inexpertly), and incorporated CF tow as part of a fin-strake in the effort to strengthen this area. This resulted in a heavier-than-designed tail, so I had to compensate with a large lump of lead in the nose. Good thing I wasn't planning to look for any thermals!

Construction

I good-quality, two-sided plan, rolled, accompanies all the wood and most of the other required hardware needed to complete this kit. Shaped parts (ribs, fuselage sides, etc) are all die-cut. A quick look seems to suggest that there are parts included that are not needed by this aircraft! Go figure...

There were a couple of pieces dammaged and a couple of pieces missing. None of the dammaged or missing components are complex shapes -- I can replace all of it from scrap balsa lying around the workshop.

If I had to lodge a complaint, it would be that the plan does not show the individual wing ribs, making it difficult to repair a panel in the event of an accident. This seems to be a common tactic with all the kit-makers. I had to trace the ribs onto a blank part of the plan before building the wing.

All the wood and a nice, rolled plan

The two fuse sides being sanded

I suppose for less than $40, you can't complain, but it's a little disconcerting to be building a kit and discover that the parts are less than 100% true to the plan -- or to each other!

The fuse has plywood sides which are supplied in two pieces and must be scarf-joined just behind the wing saddle. Cleverly, the two scarf-joints are at different angles so as to minimize chance of a break at the joint! However, this means the two sides are from different die-cut sheets, and the dies obviously don't match. One fuse side ended up 1/4" longer than the other and the two wing-saddles were marginally -- but noticeably -- different from each other.

Anyway, I completed and reinforced the scarf joints, then clamped the two sides together with the wing saddles congruent as best I could, and started to sand them to try and eliminate differences.

By and large, I think I succeeded, but the dissimilar scarf joints also resulted in dissimilar sanding patterns and dissimilar flexibility of the two sides.


Working with CA, I glued the two sides together with the four formers and a balsa 'crutch' on the rear, upper deck. This fuse had better be as light as a feather, because it has no reinforcement at all.

Normally, I'd ecpect to see triangle stock on the four corners of the fuse, reinforcing the join and allowing the fuse to be sanded into a 'rounded' shape. None of that here! There aren't even any formers aft of the wing saddle! I suppose I could add some (formers and triangle stock) but I've decided to build it as per the plan, and if I am unsure about it when it's done, add some glass tape and a bit of carbon fibre here and there to beef it up!

Fuselage joined by formers and rear balsa

partially cross-grain sheeted

Shown here leaning against the Fokker for scale, you can really see how slender the fuse is (and how big the Fokker is!

I've added balsa cross-grain sheeting over the upper rear of the fuse, on top of the 'crutch'. At the front of the fuse, I've installed the fuselage base, which is ply, and runs from the nose to mid-way in the wing-seat.

With no formers or 'structure' behind the wing, I am a little paranoid about building a banana or a boomerang. I'm doing my best, and so far it looks pretty straight and untwisted, but it isn't easy with structurally different sides. For the price I don't suppose I should expect anything world-class out of this ship, so if I can keep it reasonably straight and untwisted, I'll be happy.


The Bobcat allows for an optional rudder, which I have decided to incorporate. This shot shows the rudder and fin being framed out over the plan. A flexible 'snake' is to be routed through the fin to operate the elevator which attaches to a high-mounted 'T'-stab.

Building the fin and rudder over the plan

Snake for elevator built into fin

The fin is sheeted with 1/16th balsa and carries a flexible 'snake' to operate the high-mounted elevator.

This photograph shows the starboard sheeting in place, and the cross-bracing relieved to allow the snake to be fitted. There is no real loss of strength here because the majority of the structural strength comes from the sheeting on either side. The cross-bracing essentially maintains thicknessbetween the two side sheets. The snake is epoxied into it's channel.

Shown with the port-side balsa sheeting waiting to be attached.


This photograph shows the horizontal stab pinned over the plan, with a rule checking the LE of the stab remains straight while the glue dries.

I ran out of 3/16x1/16 balsa strip, which is why you see the balsa stripper out on the desk. I also cut the middle support-block out of a piece of balsa that should have been used to make the elevator, so I guess I'll be rummaging through the scrap-box agian soon...

By the way, in the background, you will see the rudder, with four clamps being used to hold two side-reinforcement strips in place while the glue dries...

Stab framed out on the plan.

Nose block and forward hatch

The solid balsa noseblock has been epoxied into place and awaits the loving attention of the razor-plane and some sandpaper. The hatch is also visible. It attaches by 'tucking the tab under' at the front and a self-tapping screw (not yet installed) at the rear. Also note the spots of black ink just behind the hatch. These will be used when aligning the fin in a fore'n'aft orientation.

Look at the upper part of the wing saddle. Note that the right (uppermost) side of the wing sadle ends in a definate point while the left (lower) side is squared off. That is not a break. That is the way the two sides of the fuse come out of the die-cut sheets. According to the plan/instructions, the upper (pointed) side is correct, but that point will now have to be cut off, and a piece of wood attached to the wing-center to fair the step. See what I mean about the die-cutting quality being less than 100%?


The fin is attached to the rear of the fuse with epoxy. At the same time the elevator and rudder pushrod guide tubes are also being fitted. The fuse is weighted to the building-board and a square is rubber-banded to the fin (along with a long shim) to guarantee the fin remains vertical. The straight-edge is being used along with the ink-dots mentioned previously, to guarantee that the fin aligns with the fuse.

Fin attached to reat of fuse

Bottom sheeting and pushrod & antenna guides

The bottom of the fuse is sheeted with 1/16th balsa, fitted cross-grain. The last two segments of the bottom sheeting I chose to use 1/16th ply. The very last segment, shown still detached, will cover a weight compartment into which tail-weight will be glued should the aircraft need it (not likely, but I am not taking the chance). The sheeting segment before this supports an antenna-guide tube. This exits right at the narrowest point of the fuse. At the same point, the rudder pushrod guide tube exits on the starboard side, additionally weakening the weakest point in the fuse! That's why I used ply for that segment -- to hopefully add some strength.

By the way, the instructions and plan showed the rudder pushrod exiting on the port side, but again, the plan is wrong.


Here are the complete set of Bobcat ribs, freed from the die-cut sheeting. There was little difficulty here. However, to allow aileron-servo leads to be snaked through the wing, it was necessary to cut large holes in 24 of the 33 ribs. This was tedious and time-consuming, and my fingers still sting from twirling that piece of brass tube.

A pile of Bobcat Ribs!

Center wing-panel under construction

Orange rib-jigs hold the ribs upright as the glue dries. The lower main-spar, lower trailing edge, front spar and both turbulators are installed along with some of the lower sheeting at the wing center.

Upper main-spar is lying on the bench just ahead of the leading edge spar.

Shear-webbing has to be added before the top main-spar can be glued into place. You can just make out a small hardwood strip that has to be let into the center of the trailing edge to harden it against the wear and tear from the wing bands. A rolled paper tube will be fitted into the holes cut in the ribs.

By the way, this panel is nominally 30" long. However, the plan is drawn with the two halves of the panel of differing lengths. :-/ Therefore, I had to shorten the long side...


Okay, with the wing center panel completed and the tail feathers ready, I stuck them all together with T-pins and tape to get a picture of what she would look like. Here is a shot of the structure as so far completed, assembled only to get an idea of final appearance.

Note that the two outer wing-panels will add 48" to the wingspan...

Components quickly assembled for viewing

Outer panels under construction

The left outer wing-panel shown here, under construction. Orange jigs hold the ribs vertical (except the innermost rib, which is at the dihedral angle). The partially completed right wing-panel is visible behind, lying on the general bench-top clutter. The wingtip block on the right wing-panel is not yet shaped. I will put the two wings 'back-to-back' and shape them together so they will both have the same shape.

You can see the hole in the sheer-web in the fifth bay of each wing to allow the aileron lead and extension to be slid through. A white paper tube is also visible running from this bay to the root of each panel, to ease feeding the extension lead through. This matches with a similar paper tube in the center panel.

On the completed panel at the rear, you can just see the hatch-surround I designed to support a servo hatch. I am going with separate servos rather than a single center-mounted servo and long, problematic 'snakes'. This will simplify the setting up of differential aileron, and should also allow me to try flaperon mixing!

Rib quality was poor. One rib (can't remember which one now) was die cut an eighth of an inch too short, which would have lead to a crooked leading (or trailing) edge if left untended. And another rib (again, I can't remember which) had the spar-slot a sixteenth too wide, resulting in a poor fit with the spar.


The inner and outer panels are joined with a 1/8th ply brace that has the dihedral angle cut into it. As I have come to expect from this model, the brace did not fit, and the gap between the spars had to be shimmed to allow a good fit.

Once that propbel had been sorted, it was just a matter of mixing up a batch of epoxy...

Joiner brace with dihedral

Complete aircraft mocked up

And here she is, all together with pins and tape for the first time. That's six and a half feet of wing! It's very lightweight and also very delicate. It will probably bust to buggery at the first hint of a roug landing!


Another shot of it, leant up against a wall in the yard. She almost glows in the afternoon sunlight. Just imagine how the orange covering will light up when the light catches it against the blue-green of the sea!

It's a mistake to make these mockups of the aircraft. They give a false sense of completion. You think, "It's almost finished! Flying in a couple of days...", when in fact the hard work of rigging and finishing has not even started yet, and after that -- the covering still to be done!

Complete aircraft mocked up

Aileron servo and servo bay

Aileron servos are attached to the underside of the servo plate by two screws into hardened balsa/ply composite mounting blocks, and also by a large servo-sized piece of double-sided, foam, 'servo-tape'. Belt and braces.

Two ply tabs locate the rear edge of the servo plate in the bay. The front end is secured by two screws into hard blocks of wood.

The bottom of the servo bay is not sheeted -- a simple film of EconoKote will close the bottom of the bay.


The fin/fuselage join is so weak-looking, I decided to add a sort of fin-strake so as to reinforce the join. I then noticed that although it isn't present on the plan, a fin-strake like this is shown on all the manufacturers publicity photos of this aircraft.....

Fin-strake reinforcing

Fibre-glassed fuselage underside

I also decided to add a layer of glass-fibre reinforcing to the bottom of the fuse.

Starting with a 2" wide strip (which just matches the width of the fuse at it's widest point) I thought that by wrapping the excess width around the sides of the fuse as it narrows towards the tail, I'd strengthen that area too.

I've never used glass-fibre on a model, and this attempt was a bit of an abortion. It made an unholy mess and took me a day to get sorted with liberal application of sandpaper and extra epoxy.


I also strengthened the bottom-spar by running a strip of carbon-fibre roving from tip-to-tip along the bottom spar and afixing it with epoxy. it made a nasty black mess, but looks strong. I doubt this was really necessary, but the wing just felt flimsy to me and the extra strength won't hurt.

Fortunately for me, the underside of the wing will be covered in black, because the CF really looks terrible. Here is a lesson learned: When you buy a new brand of epoxy, check it out before you commit to doing any major work with it. This batch of what-was-supposed-to-be 30-minute epoxy reacted so quickly the cup was too hot to hold in less than five minutes and in about eight minutes it was as thick as jelly!

Carbon-fibre spar reinforcement

Glassed wing mid-section

Although the center-section of the wing does not include any sort of join, I have glassed it with two overlapping pieces of wing 'bandage'. Look at the photo closely to see what a terrible job I did!

I thought that, with this being a band-on wing, I had better do something to strengthen the rather weak 1/16th balsa top-sheeting. Otherwise I'm bound to put a knuckle through it while attaching or detatching the thing.....


This photo shows the stab being glued to the fin. Notice that the covering has been done first because I didn't want to be waving the covering iron and fuse around for a couple hours while covering, with a big, flimsy stab attached!

Positioned upside-down, with tape straps to hold everything true as determined by my square, I used 90 minute epoxy and reinforced the join with a couple pins made a from bamboo skewer. A total of 40 oz. weight applied to the joint helps the setting of the joint. I went to a lot of trouble to ensure the incidence of the stab was correct. I hope this joint doesn't somehow go all wrong...

look closely in the area of the join. First thing, you will see the clevis soldered to the elevator snake, protruding out of the fin. Also there is a bit of bare wood visible. There are a couple of tiny 'cheeks' and some triangle stock to go onto this joint for reinforcing, followed by a sliver of EconoKote.

Gluing stab to fin

Aileroi hinge reinforcement

Boy, the ailerions are hinged into a thin sub-trailing edge! it wasn't until I was actually covering the wing that I realised how thin! I decided at the last moment to add some reinforcing wood blocks to give the CA hinges some more material to work with.

Aprentice modeler and R/C co-pilot Dotcom looks on while the work is done.


Installing the servos for the elevator and rudder was hell!

I tried to use HS-81MG servos, but they growled and growled no matter what I tried. I think it must have been the tightness of the elevator 'snake' with those two bends in it. Eventually, I had to use these HS-300's which I (fortunately) had sitting here.

The elevator servo is behind (left of) the rudder servo. The rudder uses a quick-link, whereas the elevator has a brass coupler soldered to the 'snake' and a clevis threaded to that. See next photo for the other end of the linkage!

Elevator and rudder servos installed

Fin/Stab T-tail joint

Here is a close-up of the T-tail join where the stab sits atop the fin. Elevator and rudder are at high deflection to show the clevis soldered to the end of the elevator 'snake'. The stab is pinned to the top of the fin with two bamboo pins, and epoxied with 30-minute epoxy. When the joint was fully cured, more 30-minute epoxy was used to fit some hard triangle-stock on either side of the joint.

You see that little sort of triangular bit with the cable/clevis exiting from the center? That was a bitch to cover! I have the Coverite 21st Century covering iron and it is the best piece of kit I've bought. When I have a fiddly bit like this to do, I always wish I spent money on their trimming iton too. If you have one of the trimming irons, e-mail me and convince me to get one!


Here is the completed model, waiting for it's first flight. My usual asymetric orange/black colours have been used. (The underside of the wing is black with the left outer panel in orange -- essentially the opposite to the top of the wing.)

You can even see the red ribbon from the JackSwitch I made, under the right wing-root. As I launch with my right hand on the tranny and hurl the aircraft with my left, this is the most prominant place for the JackSwitch, and the least likely for the ribbon to be overlooked.

Ready to fly!

Ready to fly!

This unusual photograph shows the model in the dappled light under the trees in my back yard. With Dottie in the background (looking for lizards) you can get an idea of the scale of the aircraft. The wing is 78" tip-to-tip. That's the longest span of any model I've ever owned. Well, up to now, anyway... ;)


Here she is at the cliff, with some bozo holding it up. She was so anxious to go that she nearly went off without waiting for the pilot to get ready! And nearly took Bozo with her, too!

Ok, no more messing about -- a strong wind a-blowing, an experienced pilot to help launch, so just do it....

Ready to fly -- and anxious to get going!

Flying

First flight.

The wind was easily strong enough, the model checked out perfectly on the ground, so I had Rudy toss it over the cliff, not a little scared that it would either dive to it's death, or rear it's nose up in a wicked stall, to tumble back into the crowd or plunge into the rocks. It was quite anti-climatic then, when she flew out nice and level, with a tendancy to turn left, but otherwise a pussy-cat rather than a Bobcat!

Pictured here with some motion-blur to give an idea how she moves, it is unfortunate that photos of flying models aren't easier to take. Well, we took lots, but so far, this is the only decent one.

Two flights, two text-book landings, and I'm pretty chuffed. She has a tendancy to turn left requiring a hefty bit of right trim, but I think I can sort that by twisting the wing and ironing the covering. She doesn't respond to the rudder very well, so I may need to increase the throws there. And she's much more ready to respond to down elevator than to up elevator, so I guess some of the lead has to come out of the nose. But altogether, I'm happy with the model and pleased to have a "Big Balsa" model for the slope. More pictures later, as they come to hand!


Farewell

I hadn't flown this glider for well over a year. When I took a good look at it, i was horrified at the condition of the wing! The covering had completely perished on that portion of the wing that faced the window.

For the record, the covering is Top Flight EconoKote. The black panel at the wingtip (shown here) was the worst affected, probably because black will absorb sunlight more, but the orange covering was also affected elsewhere on the wing.

I only paid a few dollars for this kit, and had a bit of fun building and flying it, but the wing was inconveniently long for my little car. The only way I could take it anywhere was to leave Dotty at home. And I never like to do that. So I rarely got to enjoy this glider and was frankly considering decomissioning it anyway. But that doesn't mean I'm happy to see the condition of this wing!

Covering has perished!

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